Demand was so high at one point that a 5711/1A, bought from Tiffany in July of 2018 and bearing the Tiffany & Co stamp, was sold at Phillips for five times its original value. However, things have changed, with this trend now spreading to modern pieces. Virginie Liatard-Roessli from Phillips’ watch department and Head of Sale for their 2019 Double Signed thematic sale, suggests that “only five or six years ago the market for them was decent, but people were not that attracted by double-signed watches.” In fact, a retailer’s name on the dial significantly increases the value of some of the most collectable watches.ĭespite the premiums that these items can now demand at auction, it wasn’t too long ago when they were seen in a less favourable light. What started as a practical consideration, helping manufacturers extend their global reach, has now developed into a detail highly sought-after by collectors. These kinds of partnerships are seldom seen in any other sector of the luxury world. From exotic locations like Caracas, to less sunny Liverpool, retailers positioned all around the world acted as a gateway for watch brands to their local markets. The reputation and respect for Patek Philippe in the United States is partly built on the efforts of Tiffany& Co, over more than a century, to promote the brand as if it were their own. As for Serpico Y Laino, they allowed both brands to capitalise on the explosion of wealth taking place in Venezuela in the ‘30s and ‘40s. Beyer and Gübelin played an important role in cementing respect for Patek Philippe and Rolex in the German-speaking world. This allowed them to reach markets that would otherwise have been difficult to penetrate from their manufactures in Switzerland. Before familiar brands became established, before they had boutiques in every corner of the globe and a significant online presence, they relied heavily on their network of retailers. Not only that, but the history behind that model instantly doubles with a historic connection between brand and retailer. The name of a retailer stamped on a dial instantly gives you a starting point to understand a timepiece. One feature in particular may be an instant indication of where a watch began its life. Alongside all bumps, scrapes and patina developed along the way, tracing the life of a watch is crucial for many. Provenance is an important part of collecting vintage watches.
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